Chef’s Table-Bison not Buffalo!
BY SBINSIDER FOOD CRITIC AND GOURMAND GLORIA WOLF| April 12, 2025
The Chef’s table on April 9th started with a caprese-like salad. Instead of mozzarella, the salad was made with burrata, topped with herb roasted cherry tomatoes and an olive oil and balsamic glaze. You might find burrata at local Italian restaurants. Burrata can easily be mistaken for fresh mozzarella with a big difference on the interior. The outer shell is made with soft mozzarella, but the inside is a soft interior made with small cheese curds and cream. The rich and creamy interior of burrata balances nicely with the acid in the tomato and balsamic vinegar.
We were treated with red wine braised bison short ribs for the entrée served with garlic whipped potatoes and roasted carrots. Besides being beautifully presented the rib meat fell off the bone and melted in your mouth. The noticeable feature of the bison ribs was the defined meat “crust” produced by the Maillard reaction. The chemical reaction between the amino acids and sugars from the meat creates the distinctive flavor of seared meats. You can find the results of the Maillard reaction in other foods too, but on the bison ribs it was perfect. We can also thank Louis Camille Maillard who first described this chemical reaction about one hundred and ten years ago.
Many of us who grew up in rural areas in the Midwest or the west have had venison, bison, elk and moose on our tables. The bison short ribs had a familiar beef flavor, only slightly different. For most people they would be challenged to tell the difference in flavor.
Desert followed with vanilla ice cream served over a wild berry crisp. The size of the dessert is just right, neither too much nor too little. It was just right.
Gloria Wolf, food critic
Editor’s note: There are no Buffalo in North America, only Bison. And Bison are the mascot of Mrs. Wolf’s alma mater, North Dakota State University!
